In March, Tre Rivali, the ground floor restaurant inside the Kimpton Journeyman at 200 N. Broadway announced the launch of an intimate monthly dinner series called The Chef’s Counter.
The aptly named series takes place on the first Thursday of each month, kicking off with an aperitif in Tre Rivali’s salon, followed by eight seasonally inspired courses served by Executive Chef Brian Cripps at the restaurant’s six-seat horseshoe bar.
When I wrote up the news, I was intrigued. It had been a long time since I’d been to a chef’s table-style dinner, and the sheer intimacy of a six-seat dinner was appealing. So I stowed the opportunity away in my brain, thinking it would make a pretty good date night idea.
Fast forward to last Thursday when I found myself sitting in the salon at the Kimpton sipping an Aperol spritz and waiting for the remaining guests to arrive. I didn’t have a date (my husband was busy working); but I decided to attend the dinner solo.
As I sat, a familiar face walked through the door. Kristine Hansen, a local author and freelance writer who I’ve gotten to know in recent years, made her way into the salon, the hostess following close behind with her refreshing aperitif. We had a few minutes to chat before the others arrived, so she gave me the low-down on the release of her brand new book, “Frank Lloyd Wright’s Wisconsin” and I brought her up to date on the status of my new cookbook, which will be published in October. As each additional guest arrived we had a chance to introduce ourselves, eventually gathering at the small six-seat bar to begin our adventure.
Wine pairings were orchestrated by Tre Rivali General Manager Marcell Gantt, who hit a nice balance between more unusual varietals (herbal bright Moscofoilero with spring vegetables) and classic pairings (buttery Chardonnay with seafood).
Each course also brought with it a story from the chef, many accompanied by a bit of subtle humor, and usually a bit of banter among the guests.
The meal began with a course that was easy to eat, if challenging to photograph (truly). A gougére filled with whipped Emmi Roth blue cheese, dipped in honey and sprinkled with fleur de sel was served alongside a “Hot and Cold Egg”, an egg shell layered with silky poached yolk, crispy potato, fresh whipped cream and shaved truffle. (Pairing: Inspiration 1818 Brut by Billecart Salmon NV).
The eggs were nestled inside sherry glasses. Cripps shared that the glassware was nostalgic, as it had been passed down to him by his grandmother.
Smoked marinated mussels were served in savory nduja broth, whipped into an attractive orange foam over the top of the mussels. (Pairing: Ametzoi Rosé, Txakolina, Spain 2021).
There were surprises like fresh spring vegetables (cucumbers, snap peas and asparagus) charred, lightly dressed and served with baby spring greens (Pairing: Skouros Salto Moscofoilero, Peloponnese, Greece 2020).
Cripps laughed as he described his current penchant for “primal things like fire and coals” after working so long in the world of molecular gastronomy on the West Coast. It made me smile as I reflected on the food trends I've seen come and go in the past decade alone.
Meanwhile, I reveled in the wine pairing, which showcased an intriguing wild yeast white with a nose of fresh dill, fruitiness to balance the charred vegetables, plenty of minerality and a beautiful crisp finish.
Little details kicked even the simplest dishes up a notch. For instance, a straightforward course of king crab and potato mousse featured ultra-light, fluffy potatoes enhanced by the nuttiness of brown butter. That would have been comforting enough; but the addition of yuzu kosho – a Japanese condiment made with yuzu, chiles and salt – acted as a mini flavor bomb, taking the dish to new heights. (Pairing: Liocco Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley 2020).
The same could be said for the immaculately tender olive oil poached halibut, which was served with braised leaks, seafood broth made from the mussels in the second course and Siberian caviar. It was clean, uncomplicated and nicely paired with the same buttery Chardonnay we'd enjoyed with the King Crab.
Meanwhile, there was flavorful simplicity in wagyu hanger steak served with king trumpet mushrooms and fresh ramps, which had been foraged by Gantt earlier in the day. It was perfectly matched with the dry, toasty flavors of the Sicilian Etna Rosso. (Pairing: Tenuta di Fessina ‘Erse’ Etna Rosso, Mt. Etna, Sicily 2019).
A palate cleanser of passionfruit sorbet served affogato-style with sparkling Moscato from Piedmonte washed away every bit of the lingering wild leek and savory steak, opening up the palate for a simple fresh dessert of “shortcake” (a simple microwave sponge cake which prompted Cripps to joke about his lack of pastry skills) served with strawberries and blueberries (Pairing: Lustau Rose Vermut, Jerez, Spain).
It was lovely with the vermouth, which pulled character from a blend of dry Fino, sweet white Moscatel and Tintilla of Rota, along with a balancing combination of botanicals.
Cripps topped off the evening with a round of Fernet (an amaro that doubles as a favorite bartender shot), a gesture that hearkened back to his days in California as an underpaid chef working to catalog a diversity of experiences to enhance his resume and skill set.
Among the many things that impressed was Cripps’ down-to-earth attitude. This wasn’t your nauseatingly snooty coursed-out dinner orchestrated by an ego-maniacal chef. Instead, it was a great meal prepared by a great chef who loved to discuss the ingredients and people who’d inspired him to create.
By the end of the meal, I was just slightly awash in wine and very pleased with the portions of food, which left me neither overfed nor wanting. And while it was oh-so-tempting to pop up to the rooftop for an after-dinner drink at The Outsider, my more prudent side decided I’d probably be better off just going home.
But I’ll stow that idea away for next time. After all, it turns out that what would have been a phenomenal date night made an equally great solo night out. And thanks to the surprise visit from Kristine, I can say that The Chef’s Counter would make a pretty swell gal’s night out as well.
The next Chef's Counter will take place on June 15 at 6:45 p.m. Reservations can be made at OpenTable. The experience is $140 per person with optional wine pairings for +$60. Additional dates include July 6, July 20, Aug. 3 and Aug. 17.
Follow @TreRevaliRestaurant on Instagram for updates (announcements on last minute cancellations can be found in their stories).
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with each and every dish. She’s had the privilege of chronicling these tales via numerous media, including OnMilwaukee and in her book “Milwaukee Food.” Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or recording the FoodCrush podcast, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
