Looking for new spots to try? During Dining Month, Lori Fredrich is dishing out must-tries in 20 different dining categories, from brunch to BBQ and everything in between. Here's what she's recommended so far!

Most people recognize Thai staples: Jasmine rice, green curry, tom yum soup and pad thai. But what about Lao fare? Fresh herbs, hearty soups, grilled meats and signature sticky rice are just a few of the hallmarks of a cuisine which has – for many years – taken a back seat to Thai food. But that's no longer the case. 

In fact, if you want to learn about either cuisine, you need only to look to the new crop of young chefs who are proudly cooking up dishes that represent both Lao and Thai food culture.

If you always order pad thai or volcano chicken, consider this an invitation to branch out and try something new. 

Mom’s Kitchen

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2177 Silvernail Rd., Pewaukee, (262) 300-7577
mom-kitchen.com
Sarinlada Panyasopa and her wife Neranchana Yabkaset opened Mom’s Kitchen this June. And, while the restaurant is still fairly new (and hiccups like running out of ingredients are still common), it’s made its mark with fresh, flavorful Thai fare served up in a beautifully appointed modern restaurant. 

The menu, which includes both Thai fare and sushi features most of the common Thai staples like pad thai, red, green, yellow and mussaman curries, tom yum soup and pad see ew.

But if you dig a bit deeper, the rewards are delicious. Bright fresh moo nam tok features tender slices of grilled pork tossed with fresh herbs, toasted rice powder and a zesty dressing redolant of lime and fish sauce. Meanwhile, Mom’s holy basil with ground pork (pad kra pao), a popular Thai stir fry made, was rich with flavor, showcasing not only the delicious flavor of the holy basil, but also a balance of sweet and savory with just a bit of heat. I ordered mine medium and it came “Wisconsin medium,” so next time I’ll up my game or order a bit of chili sauce on the side.

I was also delighted to find hang lay pork curry, a specialty of Northern Thailand that I’ve not seen in this area. The dish features tender pork that’s been slow cooked in an aromatic sauce made with ingredients like tamarind, lemongrass, galangal and a host of warming curry spices like fennel, white cardamom and cinnamon. It’s not as sweet as some Thai curries, but it’s loaded with rich, complex flavors that make it worth seeking out.

It didn’t surprise me when a server told me that Panyasopa’s mother oversees the kitchen (hence the name); you can taste the tradition she brings in every bite. 

An Ox Cafe

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An Ox Cafe
7411 W. Hampton Ave., (414) 336-0064
anoxcafe.com
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Among the newest restaurants on the scene, An Ox Cafe serves up Thai and Lao comfort in dishes like classic som tum (papaya salad), larb and a variety of curries including red, green and panang. 

But don't sleep on unique offerings like their delectably crispy marinated roasted pork which is served with steamed rice and house hot sauce (be sure to ask for that!). It's one of those remarkable dishes you won't be able to get out of your head. 

I'd also highly recommend their nam kow, a dish featuring deep fried rice seasoned with curry and coconut, nam sausage and fresh lime juice. It's texturally diverse and the flavors dance like a little party on the palate.

Rice N Roll Bistro

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1952 N. Farwell Ave., (414) 220-9944
Ricenrollbistro.com
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Artful, thoughtfully prepared sushi at a Thai restaurant? Traditional Thai fare at a sushi restaurant? Why yes. In fact, you’ll find both at Rice N Roll, where the owners have brought both their Thai heritage and years of restaurant experience to the proverbial table. They’ve also introduced their customers to delicious adaptations of their own family recipes.

Take the khaosoy, for instance. It’s is everything you’d want in a Thai curry, from sweet and spicy to creamy and complex. There’s beautiful texture from both the crispy and soft noodles, plus plenty of flavor from shallots, scallions and a boiled egg (you can get it with your choice of proteins, though it’s excellent with shrimp). Even better, the recipe is based on a traditional dish from Northern Thailand (and adapted from Chef JJ Lert’s mother) that’s not widely served, even in a large city like Bangkok.

Sweet Basil

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6509 S. 27th St., Franklin (414) 301-4126
Sweetbasilmke.com
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If the full flavors of street food are what you’re after, you’ll find them in spades at Sweet Basil, which offers playful, modern takes on Lao and Thai classics. 

Choose from classic Thai curries or street food favorites like Lao sausage or grilled steak. Or spice things up with playful offerings like jeow bong fried rice, which builds upon their classic house fried rice with the spicey citrusy zing of jeow bong.

Can’t decide? You can’t go wrong with the OG Platter, a feast for two featuring chicken wings (six), Lao-style grilled steak, Lao sausage, papaya salad, fresh pork rinds and sticky rice. Be sure to add a jeow sampler (flavorful Lao condiments that taste great with everything, including sticky rice!) Be sure to eat it Lao style: with your hands!

Vientiane Noodle Shop

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3422 W. National Ave., (414) 672-8440
vientianenoodles.com
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Vientiane Noodle Shop is among a growing number of restaurants that does a great job of showcasing essential Lao dishes – including spicy papaya salad, deep-fried marinated quail and pad burapa, a delicious mix of peppers, chicken served in an umami-laden sauce that begs to be sopped up in a clump of deliciously sweet sticky rice and eaten out of hand.

It's worth the drive to Silver City just for their house-made Lao sausage (sai oua); it’s notably crisp on the outside, fabulously porky within and redolent of fresh herbs including lemongrass and dill. In all of my eating, I don’t think I’ve found a Lao sausage I like better yet.