Maybe I love The Pasta Tree, 1503 N. Farwell Ave., because I remember fondly a TV commercial for pasta that showed harvesters reaping mounds of spaghetti from the low-lying branches of pasta trees.
More likely it's because the restaurant REALLY does make its own pasta, unlike so many other restaurants that claim to ... and don't (I have this on the word of a former employee, whom I met while working in the kitchen at a now-defunct Milwaukee Italian restaurant, which told customers it made its own pasta but in reality served DaVinci).
This intimate lower east side eatery has long been one of Milwaukee's best pasta places and its low lighting and tightly packed tables have turned it into one of the city's top restaurants to bring a date. Even though it has expanded into the former antique shop to the south and even has a half dozen tables in an arbored "patio" out back, The Pasta Tree retains its relaxing vibe.
{INSERT_RELATED}When it comes down to it, what's best about The Pasta Tree is, well, the pasta. An almost unchanging menu -- plus a few daily specials -- features a range of pastas smothered in rich, delectable sauces augmented with shrimp or scallops or chicken or broccoli or artichoke hearts; you get the idea. Diners can choose from three pastas: plain, whole wheat and my beloved spinach.
On a recent visit we had the pasta pagliara with spinach noodles, mussels, shrimp and scallops, and a plate of whole wheat pasta with shrimp and broccoli. As always, the seafood and broccoli were fresh and perfectly cooked and served atop pasta servings too large even for this hungry eater.
Entrees come with crusty Italian bread and a fresh greens salad with an "agrodolce" raspberry vinaigrette (or, if you prefer, other dressings). One never walks away from The Pasta Tree hungry.
However, if you are senstive to excessive garlic -- while not a problem for some, it occasionally has a negative effect on others -- you might ask your server to tell the cook to go easy on it.
For an appetizer, we enjoyed the mozzarella in sugo, breaded and baked mozzarella cheese covered in a thick, satisfying tomato sauce.
Although the wine list is ample and loaded with Italian wines by the glass or bottle, we usually choose a beer here, thanks to the fact that The Pasta Tree once was the sole Milwaukeee purveyor of Menabrea, from Biella in northwestern Italy. Even though that option is lamentably gone, we're in the habit now and so we opt for a Moretti Rosso and a blonde Peroni.
Next time you're tempted to go someplace like The Olive Garden, visit The Pasta Tree instead. Your Italian cousin would be much more impressed.
The Pasta Tree doesn't accept reservations, but does take major credit cards. Entrees range in price from $10-$25. Call (414) 276-8867. Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner is served Monday-Thursday, 5-9:30 p.m., Friday, 5-10:30 p.m., Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m., and Sunday, 4-9 p.m.
Born in Brooklyn, N.Y., where he lived until he was 17, Bobby received his BA-Mass Communications from UWM in 1989 and has lived in Walker's Point, Bay View, Enderis Park, South Milwaukee and on the East Side.
He has published three non-fiction books in Italy – including one about an event in Milwaukee history, which was published in the U.S. in autumn 2010. Four more books, all about Milwaukee, have been published by The History Press.
With his most recent band, The Yell Leaders, Bobby released four LPs and had a songs featured in episodes of TV's "Party of Five" and "Dawson's Creek," and films in Japan, South America and the U.S. The Yell Leaders were named the best unsigned band in their region by VH-1 as part of its Rock Across America 1998 Tour. Most recently, the band contributed tracks to a UK vinyl/CD tribute to the Redskins and collaborated on a track with Italian novelist Enrico Remmert.
He's produced three installments of the "OMCD" series of local music compilations for OnMilwaukee.com and in 2007 produced a CD of Italian music and poetry.
In 2005, he was awarded the City of Asti's (Italy) Journalism Prize for his work focusing on that area. He has also won awards from the Milwaukee Press Club.
He can be heard weekly on 88Nine Radio Milwaukee talking about his "Urban Spelunking" series of stories.
